One of the greatest Surf Swells of all time
Surfing is tricky. Kinda like skateboarding. And kinda not. It would be like skateboarding on skatepark that was always moving I guess.
Measuring a wave is difficult, because you only measure the face of it and nothing else. A wave that you see on any given day on the east coast might be like 2 feet. 3 feet tops. Tops. West coast may top out at like 4 feet on an average day. 6 feet of wave is really a lot of wave. But doable. 12 feet? The beach is cleared at that point. Just forget it. I’ve topped out at like 10 feet maybe? 12 feet tops? But that is a butt kicking.
These waves? What are they 30 feet? 40? The vertical is crazy. Notice that these guys aren’t wearing ankle straps as they are riding? Your board would kill you if you did. Most come with releases now adays, but even so… no way. No thanks. It would drag you down into the coral for sure.
I can’t even tell you how amazing this session of wave riding is. Just amazing. My eyes need a rest from all the stretching! hahah. Great video. Amazing. round of waves.
